hiead
September 9th, 2007, 07:58 PM
This is with respect to Mako. I thought it would be a shame if we don't post this magnificent guide here in the new forums.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a general guide for those who may not be entirely familiar with the terminology and care of the Japanese sword which has been edited by myself and reproduced with the kind permission of the original authors.
Blade Terminology.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2797/blade1nm0.jpg
Koshirae Terminology.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/2852/katana11lt1.jpg
Sword care FAQ
Properly caring for your swords will allow you to enjoy your purchase for the rest of your life. Chances are there will be a son, daughter or grandchild who will want to have something by which to remember their sword- wielding parent or grandparent. To ensure this is possible, you should learn to take care of and maintain these metallic potential heirlooms. Proper care will save you money in repairs and repolishing and keep your investment in the same condition it was purchased!
What Swords Are
Swords are weapons. Weapons, which were designed to cut and/or puncture the flesh and bone of human targets. To a lesser extent, swords can also penetrate light to medium armors, such as padded cloth, leather, and mail. However, if used improperly against even light armor (or equivalent test-cutting media), a sword will suffer minor damage (scratches, nicks, etc.).
Martial artists who will be using their swords for practice cutting should always attempt to follow the proper forms and safety practices prescribed by their organization or school and or instructor. Though most swords are designed to flex rather than bend or break, a cut executed improperly against even a soft target can put tremendous amounts of torsional stress on a blade. This stress can and will under the right circumstances damage your sword. Proper training and form are the only things that will minimize or eliminate this danger.
Though swords are no longer used as weapons today,swords are designed to meet the requirements and attributes of historical blades. However, this fact also means that they must be treated with the same respect and care that swords historically required.
What They Are Not …
Swords are not indestructible and cannot cut through everything. Despite legends, stories, and movies to the contrary, swords cannot cut through thick wood, stone, or metal without suffering significant damage.
Real swords are not designed to be used in the blade slapping, edge-on-edge style of “fencing” portrayed in many cinematic, television, and theatrical productions. The thin cutting edge of a sword is fragile and will be damaged if abused in this manner. Historically, swordsmen avoided the direct blocks and parries depicted in today’s movies, striving instead to deflect incoming blows with a different portion of the blade or evade them altogether. If you doubt this fact, take your favorite pair of kitchen knives and bang their edges together to see the type of damage your expensive sword will suffer if you treat it in this way.
Do's & Don'ts of sword ownership:
All edged weapons, authentic or display, may injure and or kill another person or animal. All edged weapons, authentic or display can and/or will become damaged if used improperly. Follow these do's and don'ts to safely enjoy your sword(s) for years to come.
Use common sense. Do not swing any edged weapon carelessly. Keep in mind that your sword, battle ready or not, is still a potential weapon that can injure or kill someone. Although we all have a "warrior" inside of us, we are not always on a battlefield. Make sure you are in an area where you can swing your weapon without hitting someone or something. Swords can also slip out of your hands. You should be mindful of your environment when using your sword. An accidental collision with a ceiling fan can be damaging to both your sword and your fan. Be very careful and use common sense when handling your sword.
Do not bang your sword against another sword in theatrical-style duel. Do not bang your sword against any hard object to test its strength or the "sound" of the steel as it hits a hard object. No matter how tough or strong the steel is in any sword, it will nick when struck against something equally hard. In stage plays or in movies, theatrical swords with wide, thick edges are used. The edges are flat and often as much as 1/16 inches thick. Such theatrical swords are designed to take the flashy looking punishment of banging edges together. Your sword is not a theatrical sword. Your sword is a real weapon, designed so that they could fight in the manner that the originals were actually used. Since the cutting edges could easily be sharpened and were often used for slashing, parries were made with the flat of the blade (not the edges) or were simply avoided altogether. Real swords were never used for the theatrical style sword banging that movies or stage plays rely on to liven up action sequences.
Though it should go without saying, a sword is not an axe. Swords are not designed to cut down trees or chop wood. They are not meant to be used as pry bars or hammers either, for that matter. Always use the right tool for the right job.
Do not attempt to chop branches with your sword. Such an activity is guaranteed to damage your sword. Axes and machetes are well designed for this with the weight of the steel concentrated over the point of percussion. When you strike a firmly fixed object like a tree or a thick branch with a sword, a great deal of the blade projects past the object being cut, causing the blade to bend or torque. It should be pointed out that the Japanese, who believe in a lot of practice with the sword, used thick bamboo. The bamboo was resistant to a cut, but didn't have the rigidity of a tree, and so would not have damaged a valuable blade. For a Japanese warrior to cut in to a tree would have been unthinkable.
Sword Maintenance:
What should you do first with your new sword? Like any other tool, a sword is made of earthly materials (steel, wood, etc.) and can be damaged if misused or neglected. Swords are most definitely not indestructible. Consult the following guide to see what a real sword can and cannot do and how to care for a sword so that it may have a long working life. Proper sword care begins as soon as you receive your new sword.
After Receiving Your New Sword:
Factory direct swords will probably come to you with a light oil or a heavy coat of grease to protect the blades during transcontinental transport. To remove the grease you should use a solvent/cleaner and a clean cloth or soft paper towel. Give your blade a nice light spray or coating of solvent and wipe it down. Repeat if necessary.
Once you have finished this, apply a light coating of oil. You can also wipe it with a silicone coated gun cloth available from any sporting goods store. In many respects, the gun cloth is preferred as there is less tendency for dust to accumulate and trap oxygen to cause pitted areas in the blade.
Since it is the natural propensity of steel to rust, you must properly care for your blades. Blades must be protected from moisture at all times. If surface rusting occurs, it can be removed with a pencil eraser and some lightweight oil (i.e. gun oil, etc.). For more stubborn rust, I would suggest 0000 steel wool. If you are consistently using the blade, the oil will work nicely to keep it rust free. (Hint: wipe the blade with a soft cloth before using it, then apply a light coat of oil before storing the blade.)
Regular cleaning:
If you use your sword, Clean your sword. If you touch your sword, or let someone else touch your sword, Clean your sword.
How do you clean your sword? - Its easy, and I’ll even tell you how.
You may have one of two types of cleaning kits. The first is a “traditional kit” composed of Choji oil, rice paper, and Uchiko Powder. Uchiko powder is actually particles from the polishing stone of a sword polisher. This material comes off as mud when the sword is being polished. It is then dried and separated to make a powder that goes in a cloth ball. This is an abrasive. Make no mistake it will do damage to your polish if used excessively.
The second kit is a more modern convention that more and more martial artists are using these days. You will find it to be comprised of a spray solvent or *denatured alcohol*. And a light oil like Choji or 3 in 1. This is a great alternative to the traditional kit especially for everyday use.
To use the traditional kit, you go in stages. You wipe down the blade to remove the major amounts of oil. Then you apply Uchiko Powder by tapping the ball up and down the blade. Different people like different amounts for this stage. I like to liberally coat the blade with Uchiko for the first pass. The Uchiko will soak up any oil that you missed with the paper. Now wipe the blade down. I use a back and forth motion in short strokes overlapping as I travel up the blade. Next you will use a clean cloth and another application of Uchiko to the sword. Repeat the previous step with less Uchiko. This is actually a polishing stage unlike the previous application of Uchiko which was to “clean” the blade of debris and oil. Next you will apply a light coating of oil to the sword surface. To do this you will use a small cloth, I like flannel. I place three to four drops of oil on the cloth but never more than five. Work this into the cloth a bit and then wipe down the blade using the same pattern from the Uchiko wiping. Short over lapping strokes up and down the blade working towards the tip from the Habaki. You should note that there wont be a mass of oil on the sword surface. In-fact you should only notice a shade change in color to the blades surface. There should be no beading nor running of oil on the sword. This is correct and will serve you well in your blade maintenance.
Always wipe any oil from the habaki before replacing the blade in the saya as this oil will soak into the wood and cause swelling of the koiguchi in the long term and unwanted lubrication in the short term as the habaki is the 'lock' and friction is what keeps the blade in the saya but don't expect to hold any Japanese sword upside down without it falling out.
To use the more modern kit you would use the spray in place of the Uchiko. I apply the spray twice just as I would Uchiko. Then after I dry the sword I apply the oil just as above. This is really the same as above but you don’t have to worry about the abrasive factor.
Rust, (How, Where & Why)
Most real swords are not fabricated from stainless steel, though some hilt components may be. Stainless is generally too brittle for sword-length blades, so traditional low-alloy high carbon steels remain the preferred medium. However, these simple steels are highly susceptible to rust. This is especially true in humid or damp climates.
Rust is caused by an oxidation process, the bonding of oxygen to iron in this case. This process can be accelerated by the presence of dust, dirt, or especially moisture on a blade or fittings. Particulates and moisture can effectively trap oxygen next to the steel. Therefore, it is imperative to keep swords clean and dry as much as possible. Your number one concern should be cleaning your blade immediately after use.
In fact, there are two forms of oxidation the sword owner may encounter. The first and most destructive form is the brittle, red-colored compound we identify as common rust. This rust is highly unstable and can easily spread over and through steel, eventually consuming it entirely. The second form develops as a thin black or gray film on the surface of steel and can actually be beneficial. This patination, as it is commonly called, is relatively stable and will not spread into the steel. The patina can help prevent further corrosion of the steel, especially by the destructive red rust. (This is the principle behind conventional bluing and blackening processes, which are meant to protect steel.) Patina on a Japanese style sword is found on the tang most often and can be utilized to date a sword. You do not clean the patina off the tang. You clean everything off the blade. Patina on the blade of a Japanese sword is not good.
The easiest way to combat and prevent rust is by oiling. Light oils (such as mineral oil) can be easily applied and removed but require periodic reapplication.
Prior to oiling the sword should be thoroughly cleaned. Oiling dirty steel can actually increase the likelihood of rust by trapping oxygen next to the metal. Once the sword is clean and dry, apply a thin coat of oil. Remove before use of the sword and reapply after use (or periodically as required). This level of care can keep a sword virtually corrosion free for an indefinite period of time.
Rust Prevention & Removal:
Rust may be removed from your swords by either chemical or abrasive cleaning. Regardless of method, cleaning has its risks. Proceed with caution. Improper use or attention may damage your blades and/or their temper.
Rust Prevention
All exposed steel will want to rust. Touching any exposed steel, such as your blade, with your bare hands will leave oils and salts that will eat their way into your blade and eventually leave pits. The best way to avoid this is not to touch the blade and to wipe off the blade if it is touched. It is also a good idea to inspect your swords at least annually to check for new rusty areas and to use fine steel wool or Autosol on them. Don't forget to change the oil, too.
Rust Removal
Cleaning Rust from your sword means you usually have an idea of what you would like to accomplish with the cleaning. Usually this is “make it look like it did when it was new”. This may be harder to do than it is to say/visualize. Simple rust removal is easy if the rust is caught early. Deep pitting rust is very difficult to remove from your blade. The surface will have to be polished professionally to restore a “like new” appearance.
Oil and steel wool is the most often prescribed way to remove light surface rust. You know how to use it already, so there is no need to say more. Scotch-brite pads and olive oil make a good alternative, for the more kitchen inclined collectors.
Polishing stones are used by professional sword polishers, and will give a mirror finish to the blade. Remember, though, that this may actually detract from the value of the sword if done improperly. Take note -- it takes a 5-year apprenticeship to learn to make a Japanese sword, and a 10-year apprenticeship to learn to polish one. Any questions? A quick polish can be had with most metal polishes.
Wire Wheel or Wire Brush. EESH!!. I don’t recommend this method at all. Although it will quickly and effectively remove the rust, it will scratch the heck out of your blade. I don’t care what kind of wire wheel you use and I don’t care what the guy at the parts store says.. brass will scratch steel. It will. If you don’t care about the scratches.. .. .. go for it.
Grinding wheels. Don't make me Laugh/Cry and want to hunt you down and smack you over the head. Grinding wheels are great for sharpening lawnmower blades, but if you feel the need to put your sword against one you should really consider a different hobby.
Sword Storage & Care:
Just because you don't own a museum-quality display case doesn't mean that your swords are at the mercy of the elements. Lacking a museum-quality temperature and humidity controlled lockable display case does not mean that your sword collection can't be displayed safely. The average sword is not damaged by being hung on a wall or on wooden display racks. In high humidity areas, though, it is best to keep your collection stored in a sealed case with enough dessicant to keep the humidity beneath about 30% to hinder rust. It is also very important to KEEP SWORDS OUT OF THE HANDS OF CHILDREN. Children will destroy a sword in a fraction of the time it takes rust. Also keep swords out of reach of people who want to clash blades like in the movies or cut down trees with them.
Long Term Storage
If you do not wish to display your swords, the most important ways to protect your collection are to protect it from rust, skin contact, and theft. A gun safe will protect it from all of these. If that route is unavailable however, we recommend either using a gun sock or making a sword bag. In either case, we recommend placing a few packages of dessicant in with the sword to keep humidity down.
Care : Blade Coatings for storage:
Your blade, being steel, will appreciate regular coats of a clear, non-organic, oil. This prevents moisture from reaching the blade, as well as giving a nasty sliming to anyone who touches it. Collectors of Japanese swords recommend choji, which is mineral oil with a small amount of clove oil for scent. We also recommend a light oil such as sewing machine oil or gun oil (breakfree) or 3in1. We've heard of using WD40, but strongly recommend against it. Oil should be changed regularly by wiping the blade with a soft cloth or paper towel until dry, then applying more. A light coating is all that is needed. When you look down a clean unoiled blade you should note a change in color by about one shade, as you oil the surface. This is enough oil. Do not liberally apply oil untill it beads and runs on the surface of the sword.
Cosmoline, a vaseline like substance, and grease were often used in the past, but now are getting looked down upon. If you have an old blade covered in it, rest assured that it will still be protected, but there may be microscopic pits in the blade that would make a collector of authentic Japanese swords cringe.
Sword Cleaning & Repair How Often??:
It's important to know when to clean your sword and what not to clean on your sword. It's also important to know what you can repair on your sword and what should be left to a professional.
Every time you use/handle it.
If the sword blade is touched, then the best method to defy corrosion, is to clean your sword. Period. There is no short cut, there is no easy way. Just clean it. This is a good habit.
Repair ?
If your sword becomes damaged in any way, it should be repaired. Damage from rust or corrosion is like Cancer for your sword. If unchecked, it will spread and eat away at your blade.
Several conditions may require an experienced craftsman to remedy. Sever rust or pitting will require a polishing of the blade. A bent or twisted blade will require the attention of someone experienced with such situations and having the proper tools and experience to correct the bend. Damage to the handle or scabbard may require the attention of a fittings expert. You don’t want to “repair” this and then have it come apart and injure someone on accident.
Remember this is your sword. You are responsible for its condition. Think of it as a child, and know that it's care and future depend on your attention to detail and most of all...enjoy your time together. ;)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a general guide for those who may not be entirely familiar with the terminology and care of the Japanese sword which has been edited by myself and reproduced with the kind permission of the original authors.
Blade Terminology.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2797/blade1nm0.jpg
Koshirae Terminology.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/2852/katana11lt1.jpg
Sword care FAQ
Properly caring for your swords will allow you to enjoy your purchase for the rest of your life. Chances are there will be a son, daughter or grandchild who will want to have something by which to remember their sword- wielding parent or grandparent. To ensure this is possible, you should learn to take care of and maintain these metallic potential heirlooms. Proper care will save you money in repairs and repolishing and keep your investment in the same condition it was purchased!
What Swords Are
Swords are weapons. Weapons, which were designed to cut and/or puncture the flesh and bone of human targets. To a lesser extent, swords can also penetrate light to medium armors, such as padded cloth, leather, and mail. However, if used improperly against even light armor (or equivalent test-cutting media), a sword will suffer minor damage (scratches, nicks, etc.).
Martial artists who will be using their swords for practice cutting should always attempt to follow the proper forms and safety practices prescribed by their organization or school and or instructor. Though most swords are designed to flex rather than bend or break, a cut executed improperly against even a soft target can put tremendous amounts of torsional stress on a blade. This stress can and will under the right circumstances damage your sword. Proper training and form are the only things that will minimize or eliminate this danger.
Though swords are no longer used as weapons today,swords are designed to meet the requirements and attributes of historical blades. However, this fact also means that they must be treated with the same respect and care that swords historically required.
What They Are Not …
Swords are not indestructible and cannot cut through everything. Despite legends, stories, and movies to the contrary, swords cannot cut through thick wood, stone, or metal without suffering significant damage.
Real swords are not designed to be used in the blade slapping, edge-on-edge style of “fencing” portrayed in many cinematic, television, and theatrical productions. The thin cutting edge of a sword is fragile and will be damaged if abused in this manner. Historically, swordsmen avoided the direct blocks and parries depicted in today’s movies, striving instead to deflect incoming blows with a different portion of the blade or evade them altogether. If you doubt this fact, take your favorite pair of kitchen knives and bang their edges together to see the type of damage your expensive sword will suffer if you treat it in this way.
Do's & Don'ts of sword ownership:
All edged weapons, authentic or display, may injure and or kill another person or animal. All edged weapons, authentic or display can and/or will become damaged if used improperly. Follow these do's and don'ts to safely enjoy your sword(s) for years to come.
Use common sense. Do not swing any edged weapon carelessly. Keep in mind that your sword, battle ready or not, is still a potential weapon that can injure or kill someone. Although we all have a "warrior" inside of us, we are not always on a battlefield. Make sure you are in an area where you can swing your weapon without hitting someone or something. Swords can also slip out of your hands. You should be mindful of your environment when using your sword. An accidental collision with a ceiling fan can be damaging to both your sword and your fan. Be very careful and use common sense when handling your sword.
Do not bang your sword against another sword in theatrical-style duel. Do not bang your sword against any hard object to test its strength or the "sound" of the steel as it hits a hard object. No matter how tough or strong the steel is in any sword, it will nick when struck against something equally hard. In stage plays or in movies, theatrical swords with wide, thick edges are used. The edges are flat and often as much as 1/16 inches thick. Such theatrical swords are designed to take the flashy looking punishment of banging edges together. Your sword is not a theatrical sword. Your sword is a real weapon, designed so that they could fight in the manner that the originals were actually used. Since the cutting edges could easily be sharpened and were often used for slashing, parries were made with the flat of the blade (not the edges) or were simply avoided altogether. Real swords were never used for the theatrical style sword banging that movies or stage plays rely on to liven up action sequences.
Though it should go without saying, a sword is not an axe. Swords are not designed to cut down trees or chop wood. They are not meant to be used as pry bars or hammers either, for that matter. Always use the right tool for the right job.
Do not attempt to chop branches with your sword. Such an activity is guaranteed to damage your sword. Axes and machetes are well designed for this with the weight of the steel concentrated over the point of percussion. When you strike a firmly fixed object like a tree or a thick branch with a sword, a great deal of the blade projects past the object being cut, causing the blade to bend or torque. It should be pointed out that the Japanese, who believe in a lot of practice with the sword, used thick bamboo. The bamboo was resistant to a cut, but didn't have the rigidity of a tree, and so would not have damaged a valuable blade. For a Japanese warrior to cut in to a tree would have been unthinkable.
Sword Maintenance:
What should you do first with your new sword? Like any other tool, a sword is made of earthly materials (steel, wood, etc.) and can be damaged if misused or neglected. Swords are most definitely not indestructible. Consult the following guide to see what a real sword can and cannot do and how to care for a sword so that it may have a long working life. Proper sword care begins as soon as you receive your new sword.
After Receiving Your New Sword:
Factory direct swords will probably come to you with a light oil or a heavy coat of grease to protect the blades during transcontinental transport. To remove the grease you should use a solvent/cleaner and a clean cloth or soft paper towel. Give your blade a nice light spray or coating of solvent and wipe it down. Repeat if necessary.
Once you have finished this, apply a light coating of oil. You can also wipe it with a silicone coated gun cloth available from any sporting goods store. In many respects, the gun cloth is preferred as there is less tendency for dust to accumulate and trap oxygen to cause pitted areas in the blade.
Since it is the natural propensity of steel to rust, you must properly care for your blades. Blades must be protected from moisture at all times. If surface rusting occurs, it can be removed with a pencil eraser and some lightweight oil (i.e. gun oil, etc.). For more stubborn rust, I would suggest 0000 steel wool. If you are consistently using the blade, the oil will work nicely to keep it rust free. (Hint: wipe the blade with a soft cloth before using it, then apply a light coat of oil before storing the blade.)
Regular cleaning:
If you use your sword, Clean your sword. If you touch your sword, or let someone else touch your sword, Clean your sword.
How do you clean your sword? - Its easy, and I’ll even tell you how.
You may have one of two types of cleaning kits. The first is a “traditional kit” composed of Choji oil, rice paper, and Uchiko Powder. Uchiko powder is actually particles from the polishing stone of a sword polisher. This material comes off as mud when the sword is being polished. It is then dried and separated to make a powder that goes in a cloth ball. This is an abrasive. Make no mistake it will do damage to your polish if used excessively.
The second kit is a more modern convention that more and more martial artists are using these days. You will find it to be comprised of a spray solvent or *denatured alcohol*. And a light oil like Choji or 3 in 1. This is a great alternative to the traditional kit especially for everyday use.
To use the traditional kit, you go in stages. You wipe down the blade to remove the major amounts of oil. Then you apply Uchiko Powder by tapping the ball up and down the blade. Different people like different amounts for this stage. I like to liberally coat the blade with Uchiko for the first pass. The Uchiko will soak up any oil that you missed with the paper. Now wipe the blade down. I use a back and forth motion in short strokes overlapping as I travel up the blade. Next you will use a clean cloth and another application of Uchiko to the sword. Repeat the previous step with less Uchiko. This is actually a polishing stage unlike the previous application of Uchiko which was to “clean” the blade of debris and oil. Next you will apply a light coating of oil to the sword surface. To do this you will use a small cloth, I like flannel. I place three to four drops of oil on the cloth but never more than five. Work this into the cloth a bit and then wipe down the blade using the same pattern from the Uchiko wiping. Short over lapping strokes up and down the blade working towards the tip from the Habaki. You should note that there wont be a mass of oil on the sword surface. In-fact you should only notice a shade change in color to the blades surface. There should be no beading nor running of oil on the sword. This is correct and will serve you well in your blade maintenance.
Always wipe any oil from the habaki before replacing the blade in the saya as this oil will soak into the wood and cause swelling of the koiguchi in the long term and unwanted lubrication in the short term as the habaki is the 'lock' and friction is what keeps the blade in the saya but don't expect to hold any Japanese sword upside down without it falling out.
To use the more modern kit you would use the spray in place of the Uchiko. I apply the spray twice just as I would Uchiko. Then after I dry the sword I apply the oil just as above. This is really the same as above but you don’t have to worry about the abrasive factor.
Rust, (How, Where & Why)
Most real swords are not fabricated from stainless steel, though some hilt components may be. Stainless is generally too brittle for sword-length blades, so traditional low-alloy high carbon steels remain the preferred medium. However, these simple steels are highly susceptible to rust. This is especially true in humid or damp climates.
Rust is caused by an oxidation process, the bonding of oxygen to iron in this case. This process can be accelerated by the presence of dust, dirt, or especially moisture on a blade or fittings. Particulates and moisture can effectively trap oxygen next to the steel. Therefore, it is imperative to keep swords clean and dry as much as possible. Your number one concern should be cleaning your blade immediately after use.
In fact, there are two forms of oxidation the sword owner may encounter. The first and most destructive form is the brittle, red-colored compound we identify as common rust. This rust is highly unstable and can easily spread over and through steel, eventually consuming it entirely. The second form develops as a thin black or gray film on the surface of steel and can actually be beneficial. This patination, as it is commonly called, is relatively stable and will not spread into the steel. The patina can help prevent further corrosion of the steel, especially by the destructive red rust. (This is the principle behind conventional bluing and blackening processes, which are meant to protect steel.) Patina on a Japanese style sword is found on the tang most often and can be utilized to date a sword. You do not clean the patina off the tang. You clean everything off the blade. Patina on the blade of a Japanese sword is not good.
The easiest way to combat and prevent rust is by oiling. Light oils (such as mineral oil) can be easily applied and removed but require periodic reapplication.
Prior to oiling the sword should be thoroughly cleaned. Oiling dirty steel can actually increase the likelihood of rust by trapping oxygen next to the metal. Once the sword is clean and dry, apply a thin coat of oil. Remove before use of the sword and reapply after use (or periodically as required). This level of care can keep a sword virtually corrosion free for an indefinite period of time.
Rust Prevention & Removal:
Rust may be removed from your swords by either chemical or abrasive cleaning. Regardless of method, cleaning has its risks. Proceed with caution. Improper use or attention may damage your blades and/or their temper.
Rust Prevention
All exposed steel will want to rust. Touching any exposed steel, such as your blade, with your bare hands will leave oils and salts that will eat their way into your blade and eventually leave pits. The best way to avoid this is not to touch the blade and to wipe off the blade if it is touched. It is also a good idea to inspect your swords at least annually to check for new rusty areas and to use fine steel wool or Autosol on them. Don't forget to change the oil, too.
Rust Removal
Cleaning Rust from your sword means you usually have an idea of what you would like to accomplish with the cleaning. Usually this is “make it look like it did when it was new”. This may be harder to do than it is to say/visualize. Simple rust removal is easy if the rust is caught early. Deep pitting rust is very difficult to remove from your blade. The surface will have to be polished professionally to restore a “like new” appearance.
Oil and steel wool is the most often prescribed way to remove light surface rust. You know how to use it already, so there is no need to say more. Scotch-brite pads and olive oil make a good alternative, for the more kitchen inclined collectors.
Polishing stones are used by professional sword polishers, and will give a mirror finish to the blade. Remember, though, that this may actually detract from the value of the sword if done improperly. Take note -- it takes a 5-year apprenticeship to learn to make a Japanese sword, and a 10-year apprenticeship to learn to polish one. Any questions? A quick polish can be had with most metal polishes.
Wire Wheel or Wire Brush. EESH!!. I don’t recommend this method at all. Although it will quickly and effectively remove the rust, it will scratch the heck out of your blade. I don’t care what kind of wire wheel you use and I don’t care what the guy at the parts store says.. brass will scratch steel. It will. If you don’t care about the scratches.. .. .. go for it.
Grinding wheels. Don't make me Laugh/Cry and want to hunt you down and smack you over the head. Grinding wheels are great for sharpening lawnmower blades, but if you feel the need to put your sword against one you should really consider a different hobby.
Sword Storage & Care:
Just because you don't own a museum-quality display case doesn't mean that your swords are at the mercy of the elements. Lacking a museum-quality temperature and humidity controlled lockable display case does not mean that your sword collection can't be displayed safely. The average sword is not damaged by being hung on a wall or on wooden display racks. In high humidity areas, though, it is best to keep your collection stored in a sealed case with enough dessicant to keep the humidity beneath about 30% to hinder rust. It is also very important to KEEP SWORDS OUT OF THE HANDS OF CHILDREN. Children will destroy a sword in a fraction of the time it takes rust. Also keep swords out of reach of people who want to clash blades like in the movies or cut down trees with them.
Long Term Storage
If you do not wish to display your swords, the most important ways to protect your collection are to protect it from rust, skin contact, and theft. A gun safe will protect it from all of these. If that route is unavailable however, we recommend either using a gun sock or making a sword bag. In either case, we recommend placing a few packages of dessicant in with the sword to keep humidity down.
Care : Blade Coatings for storage:
Your blade, being steel, will appreciate regular coats of a clear, non-organic, oil. This prevents moisture from reaching the blade, as well as giving a nasty sliming to anyone who touches it. Collectors of Japanese swords recommend choji, which is mineral oil with a small amount of clove oil for scent. We also recommend a light oil such as sewing machine oil or gun oil (breakfree) or 3in1. We've heard of using WD40, but strongly recommend against it. Oil should be changed regularly by wiping the blade with a soft cloth or paper towel until dry, then applying more. A light coating is all that is needed. When you look down a clean unoiled blade you should note a change in color by about one shade, as you oil the surface. This is enough oil. Do not liberally apply oil untill it beads and runs on the surface of the sword.
Cosmoline, a vaseline like substance, and grease were often used in the past, but now are getting looked down upon. If you have an old blade covered in it, rest assured that it will still be protected, but there may be microscopic pits in the blade that would make a collector of authentic Japanese swords cringe.
Sword Cleaning & Repair How Often??:
It's important to know when to clean your sword and what not to clean on your sword. It's also important to know what you can repair on your sword and what should be left to a professional.
Every time you use/handle it.
If the sword blade is touched, then the best method to defy corrosion, is to clean your sword. Period. There is no short cut, there is no easy way. Just clean it. This is a good habit.
Repair ?
If your sword becomes damaged in any way, it should be repaired. Damage from rust or corrosion is like Cancer for your sword. If unchecked, it will spread and eat away at your blade.
Several conditions may require an experienced craftsman to remedy. Sever rust or pitting will require a polishing of the blade. A bent or twisted blade will require the attention of someone experienced with such situations and having the proper tools and experience to correct the bend. Damage to the handle or scabbard may require the attention of a fittings expert. You don’t want to “repair” this and then have it come apart and injure someone on accident.
Remember this is your sword. You are responsible for its condition. Think of it as a child, and know that it's care and future depend on your attention to detail and most of all...enjoy your time together. ;)