Forging Blade Question: How do they make the fire so hot?

[tanukimario]

Okay, what I just thought of was how do sword smiths (I guess any sword smith besides ones that make katanas) make the fire hot enough that they are able to make the metal become red? You wouldn't get the same effects if you stuck a thick block of metal into just a regular fire. What methods and tools do they use to heat the metal up that hot?

[Yaso]

Okay, what I just thought of was how do sword smiths (I guess any sword smith besides ones that make katanas) make the fire hot enough that they are able to make the metal become red? You wouldn't get the same effects if you stuck a thick block of metal into just a regular fire. What methods and tools do they use to heat the metal up that hot?

I know that jetting air under it helps with a lot of it, but as far as the specifics go, I have no clue.

[Redline]

Yaso is right. They have holes I think on the bottom of the furnaces, maybe they use bellows also to pump air in there. More air = more oxygen = more efficient combustion. However, besides air, I always wondered if there was something else. What do they use for fuel? Is it wood, coal, gas?

[tanukimario]

Yeah... I don't know if air alone is enough to make the fire more hot. I've seen videos where the swordsmiths pump air into the fire, but it seems like there's more to just that...

[Firehand10k]

Redline is right about the air. In old times the fuel was coal, not charcoal but actual mineral coal. Modern forges commonly use coal, gas or a combination of those two.

[bobO]

I think in japan they use charcoal and a very simple bellows,that's it.

[goose710]

Charcoal,air in the right amount and pateince.
goose710
see sharpning kit thread for my home built forge, nothing fancy but it works.

[Taygrd]

I think in japan they use charcoal and a very simple bellows,that's it. Correcto BobO!
The Japanese use a box bellows that forces air into the forge and creates a very hot fire. Some smith use the coal to add carbon to the steel which enhances it's rockwell. Propane is common nowdays and these forges work off of the venturi concept. Air + fire = hot fire. The Japanese get thier forges much hotter than most bladesmiths. The hotter the fire and the faster the quinch is what produces martensite that pools on the blades or the nie and nioi. Here is a picture of a propane forge that draw the air in with the induction gas at the top of the stacks(venturi). The other is a coal forge that uses the fan to induce air at the bottom of the pan. Hope this
helps.

http://www.geocities.com/taylorhandmadeknives/forgespropane.jpghttp://www.geocities.com/taylorhandmadeknives/forgescoal.jpg

[Dotanuki]

I think in japan they use charcoal and a very simple bellows,that's it.

Bob-O,
Somehow I just knew you would know the riddle of hot air!!=))
Just joking!:)

[bobO]

=))LMAO,thanks Dotinuki I needed that really.My friends dad always said;"If BS were brass,I'd be a trumpet".I was the Eddie Haskell Of the neighborhood.(leave it to beaver character)

[goose710]

Gentlemen
I found this picture and i feel i must try this out , seems like an awesome project . will probably take a coupla trys to get it right but thats cool what says you men ? cool or not cool?
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8029/tutorialw1chain2bigrd0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/919/tutorialw1chain20bigdx7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/6676/tutorialw1chain24bigxn7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
The blade was made from a motorcycle chain !!! i think that is sooooooo cool
A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have.
-Thomas Jefferson
goose710

[tanukimario]

Wow! That has such a cool design! I've never seen a pattern in a blade like that!

[bobO]

You gotta do it Goose! I've seen this and thought it to cool. The one I was checking out the guy builds a little metal box for the chain and the whole thing goes in the furance. very cool.

[69NINJA]

Wow, I think Ive seen those before... I had to do a search to remind myself, those are Ariel salaverria blades, he actually polished them even more (acid bath i think) and mounted them:

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q10/dragonsbrew717/chain2.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q10/dragonsbrew717/chain1.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q10/dragonsbrew717/chain3.jpg


heres one made with ball bearings:

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q10/dragonsbrew717/smallballbearings1_big.jpg

he has alot more on his site too, check out his gallery and tutorials if any of you have some time to kill.:popcorn:

http://www.aescustomknives.com.ar/default.htm



-EDIT-

OK heres one i have to have:

San Mai Damascus Bottle Opener!!!

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q10/dragonsbrew717/2bottleopener12.jpg




~

[bobO]

69ninja, This is the guy I was thinking about. I really like this guys attitude, very up front and honest seeming. None of this, can't tell you it's a secret crap. And his prices seem very fair. More makers should be like this guy. Thanks for the site I thought I'd never find it again.

[Jason Moore]

Wow! Thanks for the pics! Those are incredible...:bow:

[goose710]

69 ninja
That tanto is EXACTLY what i had in mind !!! clean lines, awesome wood, I think i could do that?!?!?! anybody got an old motorcycle chain?? got to go to the local bike shop before spring!!
great pics ninja just what i needed to get started
goose710

[Kissaki]

I've seen knives made from "wire damascus", which as the name implies, is the same principle, but only using old cables (perferrably thick) as the source of steel. Blacksmithing seems like fun. So many possibilities... *drools*

[goose710]

Boys i found a great place to (how to) on forging WITH MOVIES !!!

http://www.knifemaker.tv/video/90298-oh-wanderful-22-hochotsukuri-knife-making.html
shows how to build a back yard forge, japonese blades, and all good stuff like that. gotta go watch some more bob-o harmon bowie !!!!!!!
goose710

[bobO]

Great scott, Goose! I'm on it. The one guy is using a spacklers pan to quench in. I got them.O-kay Goose I'm ready for my pop quiz! That green pete is my kind of guy. He makes it look all to easy. Poor bloke has to do his forgeing in the woods, can just see his misses telling him if he's gonna make those things, he can bloody well do it the woods.

[Brian Brazier]

Great link Goose, they make it look so easy, easy enough that I am considering building my own little forge :>

[goose710]

Brian
go for the gusto!!
goose710

[bobO]

How about that jig greenpete made up to put the bevel on! That was very cool. I think I can do this.

[Taygrd]

Great scott, Goose! I'm on it. The one guy is using a spacklers pan to quench in.
If you are not quenching folded steel the blade can be quenched tip first by plunging it into quench. It may warp slightly but if the diff temper is done right that is an easy fix. What I have found that works great is old fire extinguishers and cut the top off. If you are using an oil quench it does not hurt the container if it flashes (fire).:flaming: it also holds the right amount of oil so you do not need a loan to fill it. Vetanarians grade mineral ($10 a gallon)works great and is less likely to crack the blade. I have craked two blades in brine and I do not like wasting my efforts so I use the oil. The hamon may suffer a little but it can be enhanced through non traditional methods. Once this latest tanto gets going I will take pics of the process for grins. I am still looking for a good pan to quench a 22" blade in. Looking at metal gutters and metal wall paper pans.

[bobO]

Taygrd, Please do keep us posted. I think a wallpaper pan would work and probably pretty easy to pick up. Thanks for the idea's. Can't tell you how many gallons of vet oil I've pumped into horses.

[goose710]

Taygrd / bob-o
Took a file and put it into my wood stove. to day file is annealed(soft) am going to try for a water quenched hamon ( yeah i know it;s dangerus) but i want the hamon to be a test blade (files are cheap) this is 1095 steel as far as i could find out should tempor nice.? anyway it's gonna be a tanto bob-o cause i ain;t got no forge here in jersey and i can;t wait. test test test if all goes as planned i'll take a BIG file up state and see if i can pound a bowie out then quench.
i write this here in order to gather advice from our esteemed members , if my logic is wrong tell me now. i invite any and all thoughts on the subject
goose710

ps-bob-o THINK SPRING

[bobO]

Never thought of putting one in a wood stove, great idea. I was just thinking I know a ferrier, those files are big, just don't now what kind of steel. Also, would a wood file be made of the same steel as a metal file. I think your logic is right on but then I know little of this. Plus how do we get that blue color in the steel? Goose,I'm thinking man I'm thinking.

[Brian Brazier]

how do you measure how much steel to use for each project? When I watch secrets of the samurai sword it amazes me on how little the amount of raw steel is used to make a sword. Also what kinda tools are needed to shape the blade after it has been quenched? I have seen some of the Hanwei Spirit of Steel and it looks like they use some sort of planer to shape the blade.

[Taygrd]

1095 should work out okay. Some of your steels can only be anealed and H/T once. 1095, 1084, O1 can be done a couple times but each time you run the risk of cracking the blade. I stopped using scrap or unknown steel because the effort and $ it takes to get them ready to work was more than just buying raw steel from a mill (Admiral steel is a good source). Go for it Goose and let us know how it works.
Brian the amount of steel use for me is hit and miss, you just accept that sometimes there will be some waste. After the quench the traditional Japanese blades are shaved with hand planers. This is easy to do since they have the soft steel shell. The polisher then does most of the work to get the shape and lines. In non folded blades the shape of the knife is ground in the anealed state. My blades are ground to the shape and lines I want then I polish them out to about 400 grit which help reduces the clean up after the quench. I leave the cutting edge about the thickness of a dime so it does not put a bunch of waves in the blade during the quench. After the quench I handsand and may run it across the grinder with a high grit belt then buff to put the final polish on. After the quench you may have to correct any warp that may have occured. Dont smile a lot when you grind and you will not have rust spots in your teeth=)

[goose710]

Taygrd
When i start a project i go with an idea, when i work on a project i make adjustments to the first idea, by the finish of the project i'm surprized at what sits in front of me. i don't think any of my projects came out as i first planed. always adjustments where made some because of a slip of the hand, some because i found i couldn't do as imagened, and some just serindipity. i've not ever thrown a project in the trash all of them taught me sumptin!! at that they where worth doing.
as you told of your process i was stricken with how similar we worked. i grind to shape, the clean up a bit and i use a buff to finish. sacralidge to the hard core conservitives. but it do git de job done eh?
i'll be back at work fri and have some pic's o de project, i don't like stock removal in the home dirty and the wife don't like the sparks and noise(silly woman)
goos710
Bob-o - think spring

[bobO]

Great tips Taygrd, Especially the bit about leaving the edge thick! There's a small specialty metal shop in a town near by. I'm sure I could get cold rolled bar stock there. What kind of steel gives the best Hamon, etc. They have some pretty exotic steels in this place.
Oh, It's Thunk!

[Taygrd]

What was it that Dotanuki said ...birds of a feather? Goose I grind in a little shop and only HT in the house. My wife thought I was thr greatest when I bought the high dollar kenmore stove, little did she know my true purpose. BobO Got to leave the edge thick you can go smaller than a dime but it will wave on you if you go too thin. You can grind down the blade edge if you leave the hamon wide enough in case of a wave. I don't really know what steel works best but my guess it would have to be oil quench (no stainless). 1095 is cheap and I have had good success with it. Admiral steel has had some of the better prices. Wally Hayes is the MS that I copied the process I use from. He is very knowlegable and helpful not to mention his Japanese blades are jaw droppers. I am a hack compared to him and a bunch of others.

[bobO]

Taygrd, I checked out this guy's work, Awesome to say the least. So 1095 it is. And believe me I'm not gonna use stainless.So you got an edge, thick as a dime with all the good stuff in it. How do you get it down to a zero edge without screwing it up, you don't grind it ? so that's file work? Then stones? And you know sooner or later i'm gonna try a water Quench. Great post as always. I'll wait for the answers when you post your progress pic's.

[Taygrd]

So you got an edge, thick as a dime with all the good stuff in it. How do you get it down to a zero edge without screwing it up, you don't grind it ? so that's file work? Then stones?
You can grind a tempered blade as long as you keep it cool. I get the right geometry of the edge with a belt grinder but work slowly and keeping the blade wet. The trick is not to let the blade change color. I get the edge close to where I want it then stone the rest. Takes practice. Use some old kitchen knives your wife says are dull and try sharpening them on a grinder before you try one of your own. I use about a 200 grit because I am impatient. I may be off on this but it seems the higher the grit the hotter the blade gets so 200 is about right. Got to go check back later

[Dotanuki]

I have a friend that has a grinding shop, mostly outer diameter grinding.
They keep a coolant flush on the entire process so as not to change the original temper of the metal, no matter what that metal is [steel, stainless, bronze]. There is no grinding dust anywhere, just metal sludge.
Automated metal saws work on the same principle.
If you notice in Japanese sword making videos, the polishers, even with stones, are keeping the metal cooled at all times, to the point it looks as though they are polishing off sludge also.
These are just my observations, as I always said, I am not a knife/sword maker. But I do know from experience, you easily change the temper from grinding or polishing if not done correctly.

[Taygrd]

If you notice in Japanese sword making videos, the polishers, even with stones, are keeping the metal cooled at all times, to the point it looks as though they are polishing off sludge also.
These are just my observations, as I always said, I am not a knife/sword maker. But I do know from experience, you easily change the temper from grinding or polishing if not done correctly.
I agree completely. I have seen blades that have been buffed to almost the anealed state. :flaming: The kitchen knives are walmart specials that I have no real attachment to and are good for practice. I only use a grinder on my own made blades simply because I am intimate with the temper process used. I leave the cutting edge at a higher rockwell since the spine is soft. I grind an edge on only one side at a time and allow it to cool before doing it again keeping it wet and running the grinder on low speed. The entire travel time of the blade on the grinding plate is less than 2 seconds for a 9" blade. Always have had good results with this process. Once the edge is down to a workable thickness the rest is stoned. I would never take another's sword and do this with it. You can stone the edge but it takes a considerable amount of time and wears you stones out quick.
I do not think I stressed the importance of keeping the blade cool and wet in the last post. Thanks Dotanuki for pointing this out.

[bobO]

Cool and wet, got it. It would be just my luck to ruin the thing at the last bit. I've got to do this now, don't look to hard(he said with wide eyed innocence).

[goose710]

Bob-o
Find a metal file, put it in your wood stove, bury under wood ,let burn down over nite, retrieve file, and the fun begins! i've started to work that file for a tanto, see pics.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/928/dsc01493od5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/5087/dsc01495wb8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6264/dsc01499qy6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I still have some work to do on the blade befor i clay it final finishing then on to the quench!!! if it cracks oh well i'll have some data for the next attempt and yes i'll put a better tang on it befor i quench it no spike tangs for me!!
i also am going to make a copper habaki for this baby and gotz lotz-o ideas for the kashira.
the thrid pic is my workshop in the basement, now yaknow why i don't grind down there, damm dust gets into the computers.
bob-o think spring
goose710

[Taygrd]

Looking good Goose, cant wait to see the rest. Would not want to grind in that shop either. Once I move they will have to burn down my shop or put it all in hazmat barrels:-O, it is real messy and grindings get everywhere. Really excited to see how she turns out, then the fun begins with how you want to mount it. The best part of making is thinking ot all the possibilites and the next knife. BobO, If I can do it , anyone can, takes work, patience, and the belief that all is possible. Practice and repetition and many failures build good knives. I am no expert just a guy who has rusty teeth.

[bobO]

Goose, nice man cave, is that a destroyer or cruiser on the wall? Keep us posted with progress and process reports. Taygrd, The mounting part is what gives me the hibbie jibbies. It's a good bet I'm never going to be able to buy one of those knives, so I'm gonna make one! i think. Going to put my file in my buddies wood stove, trouble is he's scottish and it's hard to get him to put more then one log on the fire at a time.

[Taygrd]

BobO Mounting is the fun part, all of the materials are easier to work with. Hoping to start the progress pics on the next tanto. Need to sell to buy more stuff from Jason and buy beer:lager:.

[goose710]

Bob-o
Was a DLG NOW IT 'S A CLG spent 3yrs aboard it west-pac and two meds, and a gitmo seen it all was off Libia in 73" when Cadofie was messing with our c-130's had missiles racked and locked on they had the good sence to turn away.

goose710

[bobO]

73" I was in Rota, Spain(or on patrol IN the ocean) not far from you. Small world! Very cool ,Goose! PS. I was a bubble head. When we locked and loaded it was doom on the world.

[Jason Moore]

Love the shop Goose...but why the four monitors?? :detective:

[goose710]

Jason
at times I build computers and have about three or four in different stages of completion . right now i have two monitors on my mainframe and two on a back-up unit. also when i hook up my lap top i go to an augzilery monitor for ease of seeing, i'm old and can't see so good no more. or i'll work on one and i have cable hooked to my computer and i'll watch tv on that one. what can i say i'm just a bit off.
goose710
ps- i built those cabinets you see in the shop

[Jason Moore]

Awesome Goose, you are the man of many talents... =D>

[bobO]

So Goose before I buy a computer, I should talk to you? The laptop stays with kim. My buddy has one at his place but he made it clear I've got to get my own. Checked out my new place, it has a wood stove so annealing should be no problem now. Also has a nice lake across the street so it's kayaking, fishing, hunting still. Life is good ! PS> how is mahogany for knife scales.

[goose710]

Bob-o
depends on the mahogany, i've made some nice ones out of santos mahogany, but another mahogany was just trash. i generally don't stain any wood i use i look for wood with natural colors.
As to the puter, i've sworn by dell's but their service now sucks so hp,or if gateway is still in business. wish i knew you was in the market, just passed on a used dell better than mine for $250. dat was cheap! also depends on your useage, tv tuner ,dvd burning, photo enhancement, video storage, all these things have bearing on stuff.
goose710

[Jason Moore]

I have two Dell's here. (One server and one client) I also have an alienware client and I say if you can afford it this is the way to go.

[goose710]

Tayrgd/bob-o
I've roughed out the blade/ made an habaki/, and clayed the blade now time to take de plunge
Tayrgd how's the clay look?? any suggestions ? should i plunge streight down into the water or edge first ? also do you use a magnet to test for temp or color?
I figure i've got a fifty/fifty chance of getting a good blade from this experiment
all thoughts are welcome as i've not alot of experence with this stuff.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7083/dsc01507vf6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8827/dsc01514ub3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
goose710

[jwilliams]

Goose,
What a beautiful piece of steel. I have a feeling it is going to turn out great, like it has so far, but even if it doesn't turn out just as you want it's a beautiful piece. I haven't done what you're doing but if you ask me it should be quenched all along the edge at the same time or at least maybe leading with the tip so that it cools along the ha at the same time.

[bobO]

Goose I'm with J on this. I think you should go for the gusto ie, water quench, edge first. Yes I would use the magnet as the temp is critical. Of course I would see what taygrd has to say on this. looking good, Goose!

[Taygrd]

Goose that looks great!!!!!!!!!!!
If you are doing water you should do it edge down or horizontal with the water. If you do it tip first it will break or warp. If you use an oil like olive or mineral tip first works good. I do use a magnet to check before I quench. Your clay lines look clean and if you can you might want to clean up some of the residue in the hamon(I have had mixed results with residue left on blade). It helps to reduce warping if you match the clay lines on both sides of the blade. Remember to temper it. It was 1095 steel? In the oven for two hours at 410 degrees should leave a good RC. Don't try to correct any warp until after it is tempered. Again AWESOME knife.

[goose710]

I GOT A HAMON!!!
I couldn't wait to quench this bad boy i think i got a hamon, i KNOW the edge is hard! now to bring out the hamon proper. first pic is after quench, second is the best i could take under adverse lighting conditions
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1404/dsc01518qw5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9827/dsc01521vq6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6219/dsc01528wy7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
taygrd how do i get it to POP???
goose710

[bobO]

Goose you DA the man, looks great, did you use water or oil. Very cool.

[Taygrd]

Goose you are Da MAN!!!!!! That is a good looking hamon. None of my first attempts came out as good as that. Cannot wait to see the rest of the progress. Really looks great.

[goose710]

bOB-O
used water was a bit hesitant so it's a bit shallow , i wanted a deeper hamon but was ascared to plunge it deep so maybe next time
i will tell you in a private e-mail how i got it done so quick kan;t tell you here (work computer) key words my boy key words!!)
goose710

[bobO]

Goose did the blade do any funky stuff ie, warp, bend etc. I really like the look of that hamon. Try a natural polish before you do any etching. Great work, your hired!

[Jason Moore]

Very nice! =D>

I may have to make an amateur blade forging contest next! ;)

[bobO]

That's a very good idea. You got to have different categories, like just blade, best hamon, best overall finished knife etc. best joint venture.(get it goose) And if they buy the furniture from you that's worth 2 points. Just remember I've already purchased seppa and habaki which I'll be using on my tanto, that I'm gonna make, some day, soon, I think, maybe. If anybody needs to get up to speed check this out, http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm Brought to us by the guys at SBG, enjoy.

[Taygrd]

The hamon looks great, is that nie/ nioh on the blade? Really cannot wait to see it all dressed up. Got more nerve than I do to use water, but the results with water are far better than those of oil from what I have read. Looks like it paid off good for you.=D>

Sound like Jason and BobO are conspiring:beerchug:

Engnath was a master. If you ever get to see one of his Japanese blades you won't want to give it back. That is a great site for reference thanks Bobo for sticking it up here.

[goose710]

bob-o
taygrd
been working on the tanto got the hamon almost the way i want it. i guess for a first time not to bad, but there will be more i'm learning alot from this little #$%^&*$%^& given me the hibbee gibee's but i got it almost right. tell me true!
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4019/dsc01599ik4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8600/dsc01601ky7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2352/dsc01604zb6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/917/dsc01608xm4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

tayrgrd do you use a burnishing tool? i can't get the hang of it cut a burnishing tool from an old hardened pill making die but it don't come out so good any advice?? will start to dress sat /sun. keep ya posted
bob-o that bowie seems a sure thing!
da goose710

ps this thing is a bit--- ch to photograph
pps- what looks like a crack was a flaw in the file metal, i didn't do that it was there! cheap you buy -cheap you get! it's all a experiment so don't matter.

[bobO]

Goose that looks great, and this with no etching! Yeah goose it's looking like a sure thing!

[Taygrd]

Goose, great looking hamon. I am a little jealous=P~. Truth be told that is one of the best looking hamons I have seen in awhile=D>. Picture are not my forte and it it hard to get a good one of a hamon. Try taking a picture in the natural light with no flash and see if it works out better. It is tricky to get a good picy. I have never used a burnisher, what are trying to finish with it? I got to tell you that water quench pays off big and that hamon is just awesome, great clay application.
GOOD JOB =D>:celebration:;):ohyeah:

[goose710]

taygrd
I found a few marks on my wakazashi on the top edge of the blade and couldn't figure out why till i went on line , after "stoning" the blade the toga( is that right?) gets rid of what looks like a haze on the blade from even the finest stones he rubs the blade every where but the hamon with a hardened steel burnishing tool. it creates a MIRROR FINISH on the mune? my terminoligy is terrible the back and that little space ussally holding the bo-hi that is what i saw on my blade and tried to do the same to the tanto. It deffinately improved the brightness of the steel but either i diddn't make the tool right or did it wrong cause i could see little "missed spots" between .
the tool is sold but costs $350.00 bag that, i'll gather a bit more info. and make my own.
I was just wondering if you or anyone has used one and could offer advice?
thank you for your kind comments about my humble ( and i mean that ) efforts. i'm learning alot from this project and have a number of files right now in the wood stove annealing.
"T" is 1050 steel any good for hamons?? i've got a ford explorer axle it's listed as 1050 steel.it's pretty hard hacksaw wise, scuffs but don't cut.
i'm a kook when it comes to materials, i'd rather utilize a throwaway than buy sumptin, not cause of cheapness, just cooler to make sumptin outta nothin.
da goose 710
ps keep those project pic's coming, i enjoy them to da max.

[Taygrd]

I have never used a burnisher so I do not know how useful it would be. I use a lot of sandpaper and polish. 1050 should produce a good hamon. If you are into using scrap steel leaf springs from cars work good too. The axle should work but how hard will it be to get it to a workable piece. Each knife gets better as you go so I cannot wait for your next piece. That last knife of yours is a good looking blade, you should be tickled pink.

[goose710]

Taygrd
Not only tickled pink but i concider myself a lottery winner! i fully expected it to crack or some such horror. it could still happen a slip or so away from diaster . will keep in touch with progress .
you are too kind.
goose710

[bobO]

Taygrd
Not only tickled pink but i concider myself a lottery winner! i fully expected it to crack or some such horror. it could still happen a slip or so away from diaster . will keep in touch with progress .
you are too kind.
goose710
O-kay now I'm getting freaking jealous:evilbat: Gonna have to do something about this situation. :karate:

[goose710]

Fellows
an update on my tanto project,
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8786/dsc01627yg8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9408/dsc01635xx5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
just a little more to do and i'll be done with it and on to the next one!!
da goose710

[tanukimario]

Wow that's a really beautiful looking tanto!

[Taygrd]

Goose that is great! I love the combo of horn and wood and fit with the saya. You got it down brother. Cant wait to see your next. You da MAN!!!!=D>=D>=D>=D>=D>

[69NINJA]

Goose-man, that is sweet, somthin to be proud of! AGAIN!!! you da man, you da man...



~

[bobO]

Giggle! Goose, That is beeeautiful! I really like the furniture, Something like that would look really good on my blade.(hint hint)So Taygrd gets first prize for the traditional look, you get it for the non-traditional look, and I get the booby prize for not filing faster! (it's okay I likes booby's) All kidding aside, this has been way fun and very educational, and you both are to be commended for sharing this adventure with us all! Thank you!

[goose710]

Bob-o /Taygrd
the tanto is now officially DONE.
Material list
1-one awards plaque(solid walnut tuska/saya )
2- one silver candy dish(seppa)
3- one file from my roll about tool chest(blade)
4- one cord from wife's fancy gift bag(seago)
5- one leftover nickle silver piece(menuki)
in fact the only thing i bought was the buffalo horn
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5382/dsc01639xx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6524/dsc01649gq3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
da goose 710

[bobO]

One word...AWESOME!!

[Taygrd]

Great looking Tanto, I love the horn/walnut combo. That hamon is excellent with lots of activity and very well defined. GOOSE YOU DA MAN!!!!!!

[Jason Moore]

Amzaing goose! =P~

[mancosbob]

Fellows, an update on my tanto project, just a little more to do and i'll be done with it and on to the next one!! da goose710

Sweet looking tanto amigo, but then I prefer the look of real wood, to that of high gloss paint.

=P~

[RedZorak]

Well done! It looks amazing.=D>

[Sairon]

Goose quit making good blades:flaming: jk, looks great are you going to ever ad some ito and rayskin?

ps how long is that baby?

[goose710]

Sairon
No i like this simple look and i don't think i have the ability to wrap a tuska, so i go with what i can do.
length is approximately 10" with a 5" tuska=approximately 14/15" never mesured it.
and thank you all for your kind words.
da goose710