How do you sharpen a Katana ?

[Certified]

Need a bit of help here,would appreciate any help I can receive.

I have been going through my swords and have discovered that some of them have a edge that won`t cut hot butter, needless to say that has to be rectified.

Since they are sub $300.00 swords, nobody wants to touch them and those that may want to help me want to know the type of steel. I didn`t make them so I can only say either carbon steel or high carbon steel blades.

I was thinking of using an accu-cut knife sharpener then either stopping it with leather or using an Arkansas soft stone to take off the burrs.

Am I going in the right direcetion?

Thanks in Advance

[Brian Brazier]

I have heard that the Accusharp will work, but that is really intended for a knife and the blade geometry is much different on a sword, for a good sword such as my Paul Chen PPKE I would send that in to Nihonzashi to be sharpened http://nihonzashi.com/Sharpening.htm but for my Masahiro's I would try something like the Accusharp or Samurai Sharpener

[bobO]

Just remember you will change the edge geometry from that of a single bevel to a double bevel.Which may be fine for other swords but not for a katana.Don't put to fine an edge it will role.I would try the stone and strop first if you srew it up you can always use the Accusharp.You really only need to sharpen(polish) the last 15" of the blade.Good luck-Be carefull!

[Firehand10k]

I like to do it by setting a stone in the holder on the top of my Masahiro sharpening kit box then setting the blade to the stone at about a twenty degree angle (when finishing an edge I keep the blade flat and use the angle on the top of the box) and drawing the full length of it along the stone as if trying to slice a thin layer off. With a properly edged katana a few passes with a very fine stone is generally enough to get it pretty sharp. With something that already has a secondary bevel (my Rittersteel braided leather Katana or Masahiro Cherry Blossom Katana) I start with a coarse stone and blend the bevel back in too a smaller angle until it kind of rounds off to a curve from edge to rest of blade then work with progressively finer stones to get the edge I want. As an amateur slasher I have found the round bevel (dunno how else to call it) a better blend of good cutting geometry and losing the strength of the edge (too thin). Make sure to keep the stones, especially the finer ones, wet or oiled or they can bite too much into the steel and create burrs causing more harm than good.

[bobO]

Firehand,That's what I call a apple seed edge.I had my knife guy do that on my kukri,is sharp,stays sharp,just really hard to do.it's the perfect edge for a sword.

[Firehand10k]

Mine are gonna get even better once I get my polishing equipment. Won't be doing it very traditional but it will perfect the edge and seal the steel. My dad taught me over xmas. Showed me a knife he made in 1973 out of a leaf spring and hasn't oiled since just used, cleaned, and sharpened when needed.